Here is an example of one of just 50 Tourbillon Pour le Mérite* pieces created in platinum. The watch, that was one of four the brand announced as part of its revival in 1994, was the most technically complex and inspired by the famed tourbillon pocket watches the historic house had created back in the day. As such, it is fitting that was named after the highest orders of the Kingdom of Prussia. This example of the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite features an understated silver dial. The watch is accompanied by a matching copy of The Pour le Mérite: A. Lange & Söhne Collection by Peter Chong, that the brand gifted to the owner of the watch.

First released as part of the brand’s revival in 1994, the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite is heavily inspired by the past, both the brand’s and Prussian history. The Pour le Mérite was one of the highest orders, given for military, scientific as well as artistic achievements, originally established in 1740 by King Frederick II of Prussia. So, it stands to reason that when Günter Blümlein teamed up with Walter Lange to revive the historic brand, they chose to name its most technically complex watch, and those inspired by the storied tourbillon pocket watches it had produced in the past, after this order.  

Only 200 pieces of the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite are known to have been produced. While the majority are believed to have been crafted from gold, only 50 examples, like this one, were made from platinum. The 38.5mm case is three-part in its construction. A high-polished convex bezel, with a vertical lip, meets a satinated midcase. The display caseback features high-polished lip that carries on to a marginally concave satinated rim that runs around the sapphire display caseback. Originating from the midcase are the stepped, polished lugs that are straight, and curve down gently.

The silver dial, despite its subtle pearlescence, is entirely understated. The dial layout is marked by the symmetrical placement of two subdials – the one at 3 o’clock counts down the 36 hours of autonomy from when the movement is fully wound, while the subdial at 9 o’clock houses the small seconds. Both registers feature scales laid out over chemin de fer-style tracks. Both feature blued lancet-style hands, while the seconds hand has a prominent counterbalance.

The minutes are tracked along an outer chemin de fer track while the hours are registered along a chapter of Arabic numerals. The hands are lacet-style and heat blued.

At 6 o’clock, through an almost semi-circular cut out in the dial, sits the tourbillon with a finely finished, high-polished and multi-faceted tourbillon carriage and bridge. The central axis of the tourbillon is topped with a diamond. The three arms of the tourbillon are hand-finished and feature precisely bevelled edges. The architecture and overall style clearly pay homage to tourbillons the brand made in the early 20th century, of which the reference 41000 or Jahrhunderttourbillon by master maker Fridolin Stübner, is a notable example.

Seen through the caseback, the calibre L.902.0 is a treat to behold. The highly complicated movement created by Blümlein, Reinhard Meis, and Giulio Papi of famed movement designers Renaud et Papi, was the first wristwatch calibre to combine the fusée and chain mechanism with a tourbillon regulator. Put simply, this arrangement makes the calibre more accurate because the mainspring exerts force on either the smaller or larger circumference of the fusée depending on the remaining power reserve.

It is not only technically impressive but unparalleled in its finishing. The movement, made from German silver, as is customary for the brand, features a three-quarter bridge decorated with Glashütte striping, beautiful perlage and of course a hand-engraved engraved balance cock. Details such as the brand mark, country of origin, serial number as well as jewel count are engraved on the three-quarter bridge in gold.

The watch is paired with two black alligator leather straps and a signed platinum tang buckle. It comes with its original box, guarantee card as well a copy of The Pour Le Mérite: A. Lange & Söhne Collection by Peter Chong, matching the unique serial number of the watch, that the brand gifted to the owner.

Closer look

Condition

This A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour le Mérite is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show very little signs of wear throughout. Only light superficial marks are found, the most notable of which is a light imperfection on the bezel between the 8 and 9 o'clock position.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.